41 lines
2.4 KiB
Markdown
41 lines
2.4 KiB
Markdown
# Kyria
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An ergonomical 40% split keyboard
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Keyboard Maintainer: [splitkb.com](https://github.com/splitkb)
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Hardware Supported: Pro Micro 5V/16MHz and compatible.
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Hardware Availability: [splitkb.com](https://splitkb.com) and partners.
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Make example for this keyboard (after setting up your build environment):
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make splitkb/kyria/rev1:default
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make splitkb/kyria/rev1/proton_c:default
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Example of flashing this keyboard:
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make splitkb/kyria/rev1:default:flash
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See the [build environment setup](https://docs.qmk.fm/#/getting_started_build_tools) and the [make instructions](https://docs.qmk.fm/#/getting_started_make_guide) for more information. Brand new to QMK? Start with our [Complete Newbs Guide](https://docs.qmk.fm/#/newbs).
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A build guide for the Kyria can be found at [docs.splitkb.com](https://docs.splitkb.com/hc/en-us/articles/360010552059-Kyria-Build-Guide-Introduction).
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## Proton C Conversion Guide
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If you're one of the lucky people to have Proton Cs to use with their Kyria, there are a couple of caveats to getting this working.
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1. You need to have 2x Proton Cs, as you cannot mix and match with Pro Micros or Elite C's. They both need to be Proton Cs.
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2. You'll need to do some modding to enable proper support with the Proton C.
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By design, the Kyria uses every available pin on the Pro Micro footprint. This includes using D3 (RX) for RGB. This poses a challenge with using the Proton C, since it needs both the TX and RX pins. The Proton C needs both pins, especially if you plan on using Full Duplex Serial.
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To fix this, you need to break off the last header position on the right-hand side on the footprint. This is the `TX0/D3` pad. Leave this pad without a header connected to.
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From the A9 pin on the Proton C, you want to run a wire from it to the `SDA + Extra Data` pad near the TRRS jack on the PCB. This will allow for proper, full duplex communication over the TRRS cable.
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To get RGB working properly, as well, you want to run a wire from the `A3` pin on the Proton C, next to the GND and DFU pin, right under the USB port. Run this to the `TX0/D3` pad (the one you left without a header pin on the PCB).
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Once you've done that, you can solder in the Proton C. and flash it.
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